Simplicity Socks
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Initially the thought of knitting a pair of socks terrified me, however, since hosting a sock-along in 2020, I have become somewhat obsessed with knitting socks. They are small projects that can be taken everywhere and knit up rather quickly. Given my obsession, I would like to share the joy of knitting socks with other knitters whether you are beginner or an experienced knitter. Be warned – this is addictive!
Simplicity is a unisex pattern for adults – size S, M and L. Approximate sizes are as follows based on circumference:
S (M; L) – (21cm; 24cm; 26cm/8.5”; 9.5”; 10.5”)
Note these are approximate figures and you should measure your foot to determine the number of stitches you should cast on. This pattern can be easily customized to suit any stitch count.
If you are unsure of how many stitches to cast on, please refer to my sock tutorial, which takes an in-depth look at socks, from finding your perfect size to knitting up a pair of vanilla socks
Remember to try your socks on as you knit. If you are knitting gift socks, use store-bought socks as a rough guide for measurements. If you have a sock ruler, this will work as well.
Requirements:
- Yarn of your choice in a single colour or if you wish you can add a different colour for your cuff, heel and toes – adding a different colour also helps you use up some of your stash. The sample (pink) is knitted in fingering weight yarn that is 60% wool, 25% bamboo and 15% polyamide. You need approximately 100g/400 m for the large socks in the extra length size.
- 2.25mm needles – I’ve used the magic loop method, but you can use mini circulars or double pointed needles. Choose a method that is comfortable for you.
- Stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round, as well as the pattern panel.
- Tapestry/Sewing needle to graft the toe and work away the ends.
Gauge:
Approximately 8 sts x 12 rounds per inch/2.54cm in stocking stitch OR 32 sts x 48 rounds per 4”/10cm
ABBREVIATIONS:
BOR – Beginning of Round
C/on – cast on
CC – Contrasting Colour
K – Knit
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
Ktbl – Knit through back of loop
MC – Main colour
P – purl
pm – place marker
RS – Right side
sm – slip marker
ssk – slip slip knit – Slip two sts knitwise (one at a time) then knit the 2 slipped sts together through the back loop
st/sts – stitch/stitches
WS – Wrong side
Some additional guidance: Sl1 purlwise with yarn in the back/front – In this pattern you will be asked to sl1 purlwise – you will insert the needle into the st on the left-hand needle as if to purl, if the next stitch is a knit stitch, you slip the stitch with the yarn held to the back. If the next stitch is a purl stitch, you slip the stitch with the yarn held to the front. German Twisted Cast on – this is my preferred cast on for cuff down socks. This is a variation of the long tail cast on but is stretchier. VeryPink Knits has an awesome tutorial for this cast on. Click here. |
Garter stitch panel
This panel is worked across 8 sts as follows:
Round 1: K
Round 2: P
After knitting a few rounds, you will be able to see which is the knit round and which is the purl. If you are unsure, it’s a good idea to keep count of the rounds and know that odd rounds are knitted and the even rounds are purled. You will need a record anyway to ensure that your second sock is exactly the same as your first, unless you are knitting two socks at a time.
Due to the garter stitch panel, which lies towards the outside, you will be knitting a right sock and then the left sock.
RIGHT SOCK
CUFF
The cuff is usually ribbed so it fits on the leg, and as this pattern is a top-down sock, the cuff is the cast on edge. |
Using a stretchy c/on of your choice (I use the German Twisted cast on), c/on 56(64;72) sts. Being careful not to twist, join in the round and pm for the BOR. If you are concerned about twisting, you can work the 1st two rounds in the flat before joining in the round. You can stitch the seam closed when working away your ends – if you are doing this, make sure you leave a long enough tail at the cast on edge so you can use the same tail to close the seam.
Knit 20 rounds of K2 tbl, P2 rib.
If you want a shorter cuff you can knit 16 rounds, for a longer cuff, knit 24 rounds.
I like the finish created by the twisted rib (K2 tbl), however, you can simply work a K2, P2 rib if you prefer. If you are using a CC, it’s now time to continue with the MC.
LEG
Setup rounds:
Round 1: K6, pm, K8, pm, k to BOR marker.
Round 2: K to 1st marker, sm, P8, sm, K to BOR marker.
Pattern Rounds: Note – the 8 sts between the markers is your garter st panel.
Round 1: K6, sm, K8, sm, k to BOR marker.
Round 2: K to 1st marker, sm, P8, sm, K to BOR marker.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 of the until you reach your desired length. Alternatively, if you want to knit ankle socks, you can omit this step and proceed directly to the heel flap.
HEEL FLAP
Work across the first 28 (32;36) sts, then start the heel flap on the remaining 28(32;36) sts.
Note: The 1st 28 (32;36) sts are left on the needles and are not worked, i.e. kept aside until the heel flap and heel turn are completed. |
You will now be knitting in the flat and working back and forth across these sts. If you are using a CC, you can start Row 1 with that colour.
Row 1 (RS): (sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the back, K1) – Repeat to end.
Row 2 (WS): sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the front, P to end of row.
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 14 (16; 18) times – you will end with a total of 28 (32; 36) rows, i.e. the same number of sts on your needle.
HEEL TURN
Row 1 (RS): sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the back, K14 (16; 18), ssk, K1, turn.
Row 2: (WS): sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the front, P3, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the back, K to 1 st before the gap , ssk, K1, turn (so your ssk is worked with 1 st on either side of the gap).
Row 4: Sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in the front, P to 1 st before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn (as for the ssk, your P2tog is worked with 1 st on either side of the gap).
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the sts have been worked. You will end with a WS row and have 16 (18; 20) sts on your needle.
GUSSET
This is the triangular section of the side of the foot that connects the heel section to the foot. There are two gussets on this sock, one on either side of the foot. |
Please refer to the sock tutorial (link on page 1) to see how to pick up the gusset sts. I insert my needle through two loops to avoid creating holes.
The instep refers to the portion of the sock that covers the top of the foot. |
If you are using a CC, it is now time to change back to your MC.
K across the first 8 (9; 10) sts, place a new BOR marker in a different colour (Keep the original marker in place as I revert to this marker as the BOR as soon as the gusset shaping is complete).
K across the remaining 8 (9; 10) sts and pick up 14 (16; 18) sts along the side of the heel flap. (Note this is half the number of sts you had for the heel flap). Pick an extra st in the ‘ladder’ between the heel flap and the instep. This creates a seamless finish with no hole.
K across the instep working the garter st panel in pattern (you will be working Round 2 of the Pattern).
Pick an extra st in the ‘ladder’ between the instep and the heel flap. Now pick up 14 (16; 18) sts along the side of the heel flap and K to the new BOR marker.
Note: if you are using the magic loop method, I find it best to have your stitches placed on the needles as you had when you started i.e. half the number for the front and half the number for back, however, until you complete the gusset decreases you will have a lot more stitches for the back (sole). It may also help for you to place st markers to help you as follows: New BOR marker – in the centre of the heel turn Old BOR marker – between the heel and the instep (front) New marker – between the heel and the instep (front) on the other side |
You will now begin the gusset decreases as follows:
Round 1: K to 3 sts before the instep (the old BOR marker), K2tog, K1 slip the old BOR marker; K across the 28 (32;36) of the instep (front), slip new marker, K1, ssk, K to new BOR marker.
Round 2: K all sts – remembering to work the garter st pattern panel in pattern.
Note: if you are keeping a record of the rounds worked – all odd rounds are K sts across the garter st panel and all even rounds are P sts across the panel. |
Work Rounds 1 and 2 until you have the same number of sts on the back as the front, i.e. 28 (32;36) and therefore a total of 56 (64; 72) sts.
Now remove the BOR marker (new) at the base of the heel and K to the original BOR marker. You can also remove the additional marker placed at this stage
FOOT
Continue working in rounds, keeping the pattern panel correct, until you reach the desired length – again refer to the sock tutorial (link on page 1). I usually knit until I reach the base of my large toe, or approximately 4(4.5; 5) cm / 1.5 (1.75; 2)” shorter than your desired length.
TOE
If you wish to use a CC, now is the time to switch to the CC. At this point pm (new marker) between the instep and the sole, keeping the BOR in place.
Essentially when placing the marker mentioned above you are separating your instep sts from your sole sts, i.e. the top and bottom of the sock – so that your decreases are worked on the sides of your foot. Your BOR marker is already between the instep and sole on one side and your new marker is placed on the other side. Your decreases are worked on either side of these markers. |
Round 1: K1, ssk, K to 3 sts before the new marker, K2tog, K 1, sm, K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before the BOR marker, K2tog, K1.
Round 2: K all sts.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have a total of 28 (32; 36) sts left (i.e. half the number of sts you started with).
Now Work Round 1 only until you have a total of 16 sts left.
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the sts together and close the toe.
If you haven’t worked the Kitchener Stitch before, this video by Very Pink Knits explains it well:
Work away all the ends, but wait, this sock needs a partner, so it’s now time to work the left sock.
LEFT SOCK
The instructions are the same as for the right sock except for establishing the pattern panel, which is done as follows at the start of the leg.
Setup rounds:
Round 1: K14 (18; 22) sts, pm, K8, pm, K to BOR marker.
Round 2: K14 (18; 22) sts, sm, P8, sm, K to BOR marker.
Pattern Rounds:
Round 1: K14 (18; 22) sts, sm, K8, sm, K to BOR marker.
Round 2: K14 (18; 22) sts, sm, K8, sm, K to BOR marker.
Now that you have completed a pair of socks, you can wash and block and cast on the next pair, because by now I am sure you are addicted.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
A special thank you to my test knitters – Beth, Donna, Ilse, Mare, Nerisha, Pam, Peggy, Penny & Rose for generously giving off their time knit this pattern.
CONTACT AND SUPPORT:
Please feel free to contact me at koginaidoo01@gmail.com OR koginaidoodesigns@gmail.com
CONNECT: Please share your photos on Facebook, Instagram and upload your project to Ravelry
@creativekogi #creativekogi #simplicitysocks
Happy knitting…
Until next time, Create, Craft and Inspire
Kogi
Copyright 2024 Kogi Naidoo Please do not post this pattern on the internet, even if it was obtained as a ‘free pattern’. Post the link to my Ravelry store where you can see all my patterns http://www.ravelry.com/designers/kogi-naidoo or the link to my website https://www.creativekogi.com/ Contact me via e-mail at KogiNaidooDesigns@gmail.com |